Further Up, Further Left: an Alaskan Cruise

For a friend’s birthday, we went on a cruise from Seattle up the coast to Juneau, with stops in Alaska and Canada. It was our first cruise, and we were both a little unsure how much we would like it. There are definitely pluses and minuses, but one big plus to doing a cruise up this particular coastline is the wildlife; we saw orcas, sea otters, sea birds, eagles, and dozens of humpback whales. There’s nothing quite like a sunrise or sunset over the water with a whale in sight. One morning I woke up early and peeked out onto the balcony to see dozens of whale spouts in the distance - I watched for a minute before waking up Jason to take some photos. It was such an amazing way to start the day.

A whale at sunrise (photo/Jason Rafal)

If you squint, there are whale spouts at one o’clock (photo/Jason Rafal)

An island with misty mountains in the background (photo/Jason Rafal)

Water pouring off of a whale’s tail (photo/Jason Rafal)

Lots of dramatic ocean lighting (photo/Jason Rafal)

Ketchikan

Our first port stop was in Ketchikan, where we did some exploring before our group split up for a couple different excursions. Ketchikan has a river running through the town, and it was salmon season, so we got to see thousands and thousands of salmon swimming upstream.

A salmon jumping (we don’t know why) (photo/Jason Rafal)

The aptly-named Creek Street welcomed us to town (photo/Jason Rafal)

Creek Street on stilts above the water (photo/Jason Rafal)

Salmon swimming upstream (photo/Jason Rafal)

A salmon jumping into the air above its brethren (photo/Jason Rafal)

Looking downstream over the salmon ladder (photo/Jason Rafal)

A salmon trying to make it up the waterfall (photo/Jason Rafal)

Salmon wedged into a corner of the waterfall (photo/Jason Rafal)

An American Dipper on a mossy river rock (photo/Jason Rafal)

Ian, Ari, and Kelly being cute (photo/Jason Rafal)

Jason, Nicole, and Bella also being cute (photo/Jason Rafal)

After walking around town, some of us went back to the waterfront to meet our kayaking guide. They drove us to Clover Pass, where we got into double kayaks and headed out onto the water. Our guide, who was from Seattle, took us around a couple of the islands and to a marsh to see birds.

Gulls hanging out on the harbor protection (photo/Jason Rafal)

Bella and our guide leading the way (photo/Jason Rafal)

A young bald eagle (photo/Jason Rafal)

Kayaking selfie (photo/Jason Rafal)

Moody Alaska vibes (photo/Jason Rafal)

Kayaks and misty, forested mountains (photo/Jason Rafal)

An amazing green anemone (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sea stars hugging a crevice (photo/Jason Rafal)

Two very purple sea stars (photo/Jason Rafal)

We had unexpectedly beautiful weather (photo/Jason Rafal)

Two sea lions looking for fish (photo/Jason Rafal)

Juneau

Our day in Juneau started with a rather infuriating tender situation to get from the ship to the town, but once we were there, it was amazing. We all had brunch at the very cute Sandpiper Cafe at Ian’s recommendation, and then Jason and I walked through steep neighborhood streets into the hills behind the town for a quick hike.

Juneau’s Russian Orthodox church, under construction (photo/Jason Rafal)

Looking up in the hills behind Juneau (photo/Jason Rafal)

The Gold Creek flume trail (photo/Jason Rafal)

Happy to be in the woods (photo/Jason Rafal)

After our hike we walked back downtown via the waterfront, where we walked through Overstreet Park.

A beautiful whale sculpture fountain (photo/Jason Rafal)

Looking across the water (photo/Jason Rafal)

A beautiful canoe sculpture (photo/Jason Rafal)

Fish on a stick on a totem pole (photo/Jason Rafal)

We boarded the ship around dinner time, and then we got to watch the sunset over Juneau.

The eight people in our group had four adjoining rooms on the ship, and we requested that they open our balconies, creating a combined mega-balcony that we dubbed the Balcotron 4000. This was one of my favorite experiences on the ship: standing outside with my friends and looking at beautiful views (and sometimes animals).

Enjoying some wine and a beautiful sunset on the Balcotron 4000 (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sunset over Juneau (photo/Jason Rafal)

Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier

On the way back to Seattle, we spent most of a day in the Endicott Arm, a beautiful fjord. There was an option to book a tour on a smaller boat to go closer to the coastline and to Dawes Glacier, and our entire group eventually decided to book it. We again had amazing weather, and it was wonderful to get so close to the amazing landscapes.

Our first view of the weather clearing outside a porthole window (photo/Jason Rafal)

These low, scattered clouds always make me think of the Alaskan coast (photo/Jason Rafal)

Blue sky over a forested mountain (photo/Jason Rafal)

There were waterfalls everywhere in the fjord (photo/Jason Rafal)

Approaching Dawes Glacier (photo/Jason Rafal)

Otherworldly glacier peaks (photo/Jason Rafal)

The glacier calving (photo/Jason Rafal)

Birds in front of the absurdly blue ice (photo/Jason Rafal)

A full on an iceberg for scale (photo/Jason Rafal)

Our group, happy on a boat in the sunshine (photo/random person on the boat)

Glowing blue ice (photo/Jason Rafal)

This rock face had amazing colors and textures (photo/Jason Rafal)

Our tiny cruise ship in the background (photo/Jason Rafal)

No idea how this ice shape happened (photo/Jason Rafal)

Foggy waterfalls on top of a mountain (photo/Jason Rafal)

A little seal saying hello (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sky clearing over multi-colored mountains (photo/Jason Rafal)

Sunshine on a waterfall (photo/Jason Rafal)

A bald eagle watching us (photo/Jason Rafal)

Prince Rupert

Our last stop before going back to Seattle was Prince Rupert, Canada. This was a smaller town that seemed new to the cruise ship circuit - we even heard a local remark with some excitement that there was a cruise ship in town.

Moody weather when we arrived in Prince Rupert (photo/Jason Rafal)

Jason and I again got off the ship and immediately went for a nature walk (I was always a little restless by the time we stopped). I had scouted out the Rushbrook Trail, which was easily accessible from town, and it ended up being a beautiful trail through the woods along the water. At the end we spent some time birding at Seal Cove, which had a lot of kingfishers and some shorebirds.

A rainbow bench on the Rushbrook Trail (photo/Jason Rafal)

Birding (photo/Jason Rafal)

A kingfisher over the cove (photo/Jason Rafal)

Very official trail sign (photo/Jason Rafal)

A helicopter moving…something (photo/Jason Rafal)

After our hike we met up with the rest of the group to walk around and go to the brewery in town.

Flowers at the small but impressively beautiful Sunken Gardens (photo/Jason Rafal)

More garden flowers (photo/Jason Rafal)

An arrangement with a Japanese Maple (photo/Jason Rafal)

Someone rinsing crabs (photo/Jason Rafal)

We ended our trip with a sea day as we went around Vancouver Island and back to Seattle. We mostly relaxed, ate, and looked for wildlife.

A whale tale in the mist (photo/Jason Rafal)

Another whale tail (photo/Jason Rafal)

A dramatic sunset over the water (photo/Jason Rafal)

More of the beautiful sunset (photo/Jason Rafal)

Blue hour settling in over the ocean (photo/Jason Rafal)

The British Colombian and Alaskan coast is incredibly beautiful and full of sea life, and it was so fun to be able to experience it with our friends. Alaska, we’ll be back.